ONE MUST REMEMBER: AS NATIVE SF SEPTUAGENARIAN ... RECENTLY LOSING PAL BILL HICKEY THESE BOYS HERE DO A REMARKABLE SESSION. I KNOW HOW O. BEACH CAN CHEW ONE UP....AND OUT......J.D.
Awesome valiant attempts by these troopers. It takes top stamina to even attempt these waves. At first I thought this was Puerto Escondido, but then I noticed how suited up these guys are. And I checked the comments and found out it was OB, so I'm assuming that. And if so OB is a massive sand bottom beach break, like Puerto, close to the continental self and OB, close to that and the SF entrance. So, there's something to be said about the way massive sand bottom big waves break. I grew up surfing big waves in Hawaii, and the waves are different here. I think warm water makes big waves in Hawaii softer because the molecules are moving around faster and the white water is frothier. Whereas in cold water big waves, the water is moving slower and heavier, like closer to the realm of the water form of ice, a solid. So that makes the white water stronger and meaner, and heavier, as in more condensed. And the solid water seems even more so, harder and denser on the bottom of boards, harder to paddle in to catch waves, and harder for a surfer to control his board. So then let's talk about equipment. The boards have to be slightly bigger to accommodate that and to accommodate all the rubber a surfer has to wear just to handle that cold. All said and done it is way harder and takes way more stamina to surf big cold waves. Then you have sand bottom waves with can have a more gradual decreasing depth for a wave to break in. Which makes a much bigger playing field or depth of focus , for a wave to decide to actually jack and pitch, which makes things even harder at a place like OB. Not to mention the massive lateral range of the line up, of huge overlapping walled out peaks. I've got to hand it to the surfers that get out there and challenge it. It has to be one of the most demanding big wave spots I've ever seen. I've never surfed it, but I've surfed slot of big waves in my life and I know what I'm looking at. I've also had a lot of my friends from Hawaii that are good surfers in big waves go to college there. Some to the merchant marine school and others to the other good colleges there, and they all had their hand at big OB and have said, it's so heavy, there's nothing like it.
I havn't surfed in decades, but I did a montage and wrote this old style surf jam ua-cam.com/video/Ec4JrAYBqX4/v-deo.html to pay homage and put some guitars and a bass I built from scratch through their paces.
I grew up a couple blocks from there. Back in those days Kelly's Cove was the spot we surfed most, But we did have some huge breaks around Rivera and Santiago.
Thanks for sharing...any body who has surfed here knows it ain't easy...The paddle outs are insane but it is one of my favorite waves. I paddled out one time cause it looked so perfect...on my 6'2 single fin...I spent 30 min on my first attempt but didn't make it out...came back to shore in was looking at and some guy came up to me and was like there is a channel over there...so I said fuck it and tried again. Made it out and realized it was way too big for my board... took off on my first wave and just got speed warbles...yes on a surfboard. Turn around to see the only other guy taking off on a wave and just get pitted... it may look small from shore but you have to add like 6 feet to what you think it is cause it breaks so far out
Guy on the late takeoff that was bravery
There’s a hell of a lot of water moving out there. I’d say it would be rideable if it wasn’t for that river.
Looks like the sort of wave you need anything over 10 foot😂
Freaken Awesomely Incredible!!!!!!🤪
ny/ mor like this this is heayla
Kook narration of the year goes to….
This cameraman sounds like a human stereotype
ONE MUST REMEMBER: AS NATIVE SF SEPTUAGENARIAN ... RECENTLY LOSING PAL BILL HICKEY THESE BOYS HERE DO A REMARKABLE SESSION. I KNOW HOW O. BEACH CAN CHEW ONE UP....AND OUT......J.D.
Props to all the ob boys.if you can make it out to that line up all other waves in the world is easy money.
Awesome valiant attempts by these troopers. It takes top stamina to even attempt these waves. At first I thought this was Puerto Escondido, but then I noticed how suited up these guys are. And I checked the comments and found out it was OB, so I'm assuming that. And if so OB is a massive sand bottom beach break, like Puerto, close to the continental self and OB, close to that and the SF entrance. So, there's something to be said about the way massive sand bottom big waves break. I grew up surfing big waves in Hawaii, and the waves are different here. I think warm water makes big waves in Hawaii softer because the molecules are moving around faster and the white water is frothier. Whereas in cold water big waves, the water is moving slower and heavier, like closer to the realm of the water form of ice, a solid. So that makes the white water stronger and meaner, and heavier, as in more condensed. And the solid water seems even more so, harder and denser on the bottom of boards, harder to paddle in to catch waves, and harder for a surfer to control his board. So then let's talk about equipment. The boards have to be slightly bigger to accommodate that and to accommodate all the rubber a surfer has to wear just to handle that cold. All said and done it is way harder and takes way more stamina to surf big cold waves. Then you have sand bottom waves with can have a more gradual decreasing depth for a wave to break in. Which makes a much bigger playing field or depth of focus , for a wave to decide to actually jack and pitch, which makes things even harder at a place like OB. Not to mention the massive lateral range of the line up, of huge overlapping walled out peaks. I've got to hand it to the surfers that get out there and challenge it. It has to be one of the most demanding big wave spots I've ever seen. I've never surfed it, but I've surfed slot of big waves in my life and I know what I'm looking at. I've also had a lot of my friends from Hawaii that are good surfers in big waves go to college there. Some to the merchant marine school and others to the other good colleges there, and they all had their hand at big OB and have said, it's so heavy, there's nothing like it.
Your theories are so cool!! And I think valid too!!
PE (Zicatela) and OB are both premier boardbreaker waves....!
I've seen this so many times. my fave ocean beach video
Kook narrator
Nice waves but some guys did not ride the barrels good enough not to come out. Pity
That wind wind noise is too muh.
Awesome footage!!🌊 reminds me of surfers point Ventura California, used to surf with a sea kayak!!! Great memories thanks for the video!!!🌊🌊🌊👍 Bra!!
epic ob
why are the boards so big and no one seems to be charging in these lovely conditions? great swell
You need a lot of buoyancy to get into the waves early before they get too steep, and the paddle out is difficult. They look charging to me!
Dude this vid is legendary. Let’s link I’m off 47th and Lawton. Andytown on me.
Epic
3:20 one of the worst I've ever seen for sure!
BARBARIAN DAYS!
what a stupid commentator
how do you paddle out in waves like this? A board that big and big sets?
12:30 best wipe put followed by one of the best barrels.
13:09 dude got blown up
Bombs!
2:57 "He lost his composure"
Brings back some good memories. Mavs must have been epic this day.
Surf in the Waves Classics
What range of board sizes are people riding in the vid do you recon?
8-9'
6:13 is some man sh@t!
That real big beach.
RIP Grillson!
12:35 wave of the vid by far
it looks gay how he is grabbing both rails...
Thanks for posting!
A few people have been swept out to sea by those currents. Looks like any harmless beach from the outside but don’t let it fool you.
“Super spitty “ ...”dude that guy got roasted” !!!!!jhahahahaha when is this genius
Your commentary is garbage, sick footage though
nah, yours is
Commentary is classic
So good there in ‘86 brutal paddle out. Bitter cold
Where’s Doc???
OUTSIDE ((((((((((((((((
15:24 gurgle, gurgle, gurgle....
Balls.
heavy AF. these waves are savage. these guys are fucking warriors
I havn't surfed in decades, but I did a montage and wrote this old style surf jam ua-cam.com/video/Ec4JrAYBqX4/v-deo.html to pay homage and put some guitars and a bass I built from scratch through their paces.
I grew up a couple blocks from there. Back in those days Kelly's Cove was the spot we surfed most, But we did have some huge breaks around Rivera and Santiago.
ohhhhhh.... wohhhh....uohhhh... ohhhh
Thanks for sharing...any body who has surfed here knows it ain't easy...The paddle outs are insane but it is one of my favorite waves. I paddled out one time cause it looked so perfect...on my 6'2 single fin...I spent 30 min on my first attempt but didn't make it out...came back to shore in was looking at and some guy came up to me and was like there is a channel over there...so I said fuck it and tried again. Made it out and realized it was way too big for my board... took off on my first wave and just got speed warbles...yes on a surfboard. Turn around to see the only other guy taking off on a wave and just get pitted... it may look small from shore but you have to add like 6 feet to what you think it is cause it breaks so far out
What He said....^
this is fuckin badass SF
Respect to this guys dealing with this heavy waters .would you call that 10-12 ?
it’s called heavy, cold and dangerous
If only more people knew how to shoot like this guy. Well done!!!!!!